Pray Eat Slay

If you’ve ever been stationed in or around Grafenwöhr, Germany, you probably already know. Finding good food around here can feel like a full-time job. And by “good,” I don’t mean the kind of meal that just fills your stomach. I mean the kind that makes you pause mid-bite and go, “Okay, now that’s what I’m talking about.” Unfortunately, those moments are rare in this part of Bavaria.

Don’t get me wrong, Germany has a rich food culture. Bavarian pretzels, schnitzel, and the ever-reliable döner kebab have their moments. But after these last two months here, even the most die-hard schnitzel fans start dreaming of variety. I’m talking spice, sauces that aren’t just cream-based, of actual heat in your food if you ask for “spicy.” 

Grafenwöhr is a small town, and with the U.S. military presence, there’s a strange blend of cultures trying to coexist. There are a few local gems tucked into nearby towns like Weiden or Amberg, but most of the options within a quick drive are either fast food, uninspired gas station snacks, or pubs serving up the same four items in rotation. For those of us craving something outside the wurst-and-potatoes routine, it can be frustrating.

Craving Thai? Good luck. Sushi? Better be ready to drive, and maybe lower your expectations. Mexican? Let’s just say that if you’re from the States and have real tacos in your memory, you’ll probably cry a little after the first bite of what’s offered here.

The lack of variety can be especially hard if you’re trying to eat healthy or have dietary restrictions. Vegetarian options tend to be an afterthought, and forget about finding something vegan that isn’t just a sad salad.

That said, the food struggle does have an upsides. It forces you to get creative. Many folks here have learned to cook amazing meals at home out of necessity. You start learning where to find the good ingredients, which local markets have the freshest produce, and how to recreate your favorite dishes with what’s available. Suddenly, your kitchen becomes your favorite restaurant, and your spice cabinet is worth its weight in gold.

So yes, finding good food around Grafenwöhr is hard. But for those of us living here, it’s also become a bit of a challenge we’ve learned to tackle with patience, a good GPS, and a whole lot of home cooking.